Helping Your Dog Overcome Fear Aggression
Fear aggression typically involves defensive behavior based in
fear. For example, the dog growls, barks, and/or displays teeth to make the
scary object (person, other dog, noise) go away. The defensive behavior
continues because it usually works for the dog! Dog parents should understand
the problem from the dog’s perspective rather than assume the dog is being
irrational, because dogs are always true to themselves.
There is no one “recipe” for solving fear aggression, as each dog
is unique. However, helping a dog with fear aggression generally involves
dealing with the underlying issue of fear, using conditioning techniques to
help change the association of the fear. The list below defines these
conditioning techniques, and describes related suggestions for a total approach
to looking at dog behavior:
1.
Prevent situations that provoke the defensive behavior as much as
possible. The more a dog engages in a particular behavior, the better he gets
at it. Since the behavior is repeatedly rehearsed, it becomes more
ingrained, and is completed (and thereby self-reinforcing).
2.
Begin regular obedience training. Training increases the
communication and understanding between a dog and handler. It also helps the
dog learn and perform acceptable behaviors. Use reward-based training, which is
giving your dog things she wants for doing what you want, to foster trust and
to motivate your dog. Include relaxation exercises, come when called, and loose
leash walking in your training regime. In addition, simply pay close attention
to positively reinforce any desirable behaviors during the day. Dogs do what
works for them, and they will also repeat what works for them. So, catch your
dog in the act of doing something appropriate (chewing a bone, being quiet,
watching you); aim for at least 25 times per day that you positively reinforce
your dog. Some good books for novice dog trainers are Dog-Friendly Dog
Training by Andrea Arden and The Power of Positive Dog Training by
Pat Miller. For more in depth information, read The Culture Clash by
Jean Donaldson, which explains many aspects of dog aggression.
3.
Utilize classical conditioning with systematic desensitization and
counter-conditioning. Desensitizing is gradual exposure to a fear provoking
experience, starting at a point that does not provoke the fear--and only
increasing the intensity of exposure if the dog is
relaxed. Counter-conditioning is the process of associating a previously
feared thing with something highly pleasant, like food. Take, for example,
the dog who is fear aggressive toward other dogs. The handler would take the
dog on a walk, and as soon as the dog sees another dog, the handler begins
feeding high-value treats (like roast beef, chicken, cheese). The feeding
continues as long as the other dog is in sight; as soon as the other dog
leaves, the feeding stops. With repetition, the fearful dog learns that other
dogs predict great treats. A good resource for these conditioning techniques is
the booklet The Cautious Canine by Patricia McConnell. Or enlist the
help of an experienced dog trainer or behaviorist to make sure the timing of
the rewards and duration of sessions are accurate. You can search for certified
trainers in your area at http://www.apdt.com/trainers-and-owners/trainer-search/choosing-a-trainer.htm. If the aggression is directed toward
humans, a professional dog trainer should definitely be consulted. Changing a
dog’s underlying emotional response takes lots of time and patience, but these
methods work well on fear aggression.
4.
Learn to watch your dog for signs of distress. These signs may
include a subtle tensing of her muscles, lip licking, excessive panting, head
turning away from a fearful situation, yawning, freezing, biting the leash,
whining, or growling. (Growling, by the way, should never be punished, since
that is an appropriate communication warning from the dog that she is
uncomfortable and/or scared.) When you see any sign of fear or stress, protect
your dog from the distressing situation. For example, increase the distance
from the scary situation, step in between your dog and the object of your dog’s
fear, or use a squirt bottle on an approaching dog to ward off further
advances.
5.
Make sure you are relaxed yourself, because your dog will mirror
your emotional state. Diffuse a potentially tense situation by invoking Bill
Campbell’s “Jolly Routine,” in which the handler becomes jolly (singing a happy
song, talking happily to your dog, dancing, etc.) It really works!
6.
To further increase the responsiveness of your dog to you, try
having him earn everything in life (e.g. sitting for petting, getting treats,
going outside, getting whatever he wants), and appropriately taking away the
reward for any inappropriate behavior (e.g. giving time-outs, withholding
treats or attention). This program is also known as “nothing in life is free.”
Have your dog sit or down or any other known behavior before he gets his food
bowl, go outside, get belly rubs, etc. Dogs seem to thrive when they have jobs.
Having a dog earn what he wants also helps to reduce tensions and anxieties
that may arise in some situations because of a dog's uncertainties of who is in
charge.
7.
Teach tricks and agility to your dog. As a dog learns new skills,
his confidence grows, so he is not as fearful overall. In other words, the dog
learns how to make good things happen.
8.
Do not use punishment for a fear aggression issue. Punishment
makes a fearful situation even more unpleasant for a dog, could create mistrust
toward you and an increased dislike of the scary object, and increases stress.
Focus instead on setting up training so that your dog has successes and
positive experiences.
9.
Don’t try to force your dog to experience the object or situation
that is causing him to be afraid. For example, if he is afraid of bicycles and
you force him to stand in place while bicycles whiz by, he’ll probably become
more fearful, rather than less fearful of bicycles.
10. Make sure your dog gets
lots of exercise. Exercise does not directly solve a fear issue, but meeting a
dog’s exercise needs may prevent other behavior problems. A tired dog is a good
dog!
11. It never hurts to rule out
a medical problem when behavior changes. A dog may benefit from a vet exam to
make sure she feels well, and many vets now have behavioral training to help
you further.
12. Diet is related to many
behavior problems, and can affect your dog’s mood, so experiment (with vet
assistance if desired) with various high-quality dog foods. Read the
ingredients on the label; premium and super-premium dog foods have whole meat
sources in the top 3 ingredients, as well as whole grains. Make sure the food
contains no corn, no by-products, and no preservatives, as these ingredients
could negatively affect behavior. The periodical “Whole Dog Journal” (http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/) tests and publishes an annual list of
excellent dog foods.
13. Since fearful dogs can
improve with less anxiety, consider using Bach’s Rescue Remedy, a homeopathic
calming aid. It is made from flower essences. The theory is that each flower
embodies a certain quality, and if an individual is resisting some quality,
he/she is out of touch with that aspect of his/her nature. Rescue Remedy is
specifically for dealing with stress. It certainly is harmless to try; you only
use 4 drops in the dog’s daily water intake. You can purchase Rescue Remedy at
health food stores or natural foods stores.
As a safeguard against the development of fear aggression, dogs
should be thoroughly and properly socialized. This means gradually exposing
your puppy to different people, places, things, surfaces, noises, and
situations. The key is to introduce these novel things as your dog can handle
it, rather than overwhelming your dog. During socialization, don’t coddle your
dog for acting shy. Let your dog approach a new thing at his own pace, and
leave if he wants.
Additional
information about canine aggression can be found on the Best Friends website,
at this link: http://www.bestfriends.org/theanimals/petcare/dogs.cfm
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