A gem is a naturally occuring material desirable for its beauty
A gem is a naturally occuring material desirable for its beauty, valuable
in its rarity, and sufficiently durable to give lasting pleasure.
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Beauty:
Beauty of a gemstone is
determined by brilliance, luster, fire and color (later lecture). The
first three quantities depend on the cut of the stone. Before we can
understand why cut gems sparkle, we need to learn some basic terms to describe
cut stones.
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Cut stone vocabulary:
·
Polished
planar surfaces are referred to as facets.
·
The
midline of a facetted gem is called the girdle and may or may not be
facetted.
·
The
area above the girdle is called the crown; the factes on the crown are the
table, the star facets, the kite (or bezel) facets and the upper girdle
facets.
·
The
area below the girdle is called the pavillion; these facets are known as the
lower girdle facets, the pavilion facets and the culet.
·
The
type of cut where gems have a flat bottom surface and a rounded upper surface
is called cabochon.
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Why are gems cut the way
they are?
·
Reflection
and refraction
In order to understand why
gems are faceted, it is essential to understand how light behaves once it
passes into a gemstone.
Light can either be reflected
off a surface or pass through the surface into the new substance.
When light passes from one
material into another, it is bent or refracted. But by how much?
The amount light is bent is
determined by the density difference between the gem and air. A measure of
the amount light is bent is termed the "refractive index" or 'RI'.
·
The
Critical Angle
The critical angle is
the angle at which total internal reflection is achieved. But what do we mean
by "internal
reflection"?
Light travelling through a
stone intersects the stone-air surface. If it passes within the critical
angle (measured relative to the normal to that surface), it will exit the
stone. If it passes outside the critical angle, it will be internally
reflected.
We use these facts to determine how facets should be
placed in order to control the
path of light in a gemstone!
Naturally,
in order to achieve brilliance and sparkle, we do NOT want light to escape
from the pavillion. We DO want light to escape from the top facets!
Thus,
to recap, the placement of facets on a gem is determined using critical
angle information, which comes from the refractive
index information.
Many
gem cuts
that meet the basic critical angle requirements can be created.
Two
important examples
are the "Brilliant Cut" and "Emerald Cut".
For
this course, we are not concerned about how facets are created in practice.
However, take a look here
if you are curious!
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Luster
Not only does the placement of the facets matter, but the
smoothness of the surface (called "luster") does too. Luster is a
function of both the surface and the RI of the mineral itself. Terms used to
describe luster include adamantine, pearly, metallic, silky, vitreous,
resinous, and waxy. Gem grading reports refer to "finish" or
"polish" to describe how well polished the surface is. "Luster"
is also used to describe how mirror=like the surface of a pearl is.
·
When the surface of the gem is
polished, the light is internally
reflected, as expected.
·
If the surface of the gem is
left rough, light is
lost through unplanned leakage.
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Fire
"Fire" refers to the rainbow-like flashes of
color seen in cut stones.
Where
do these come from?
It
is important to realize that the extent to which light is refracted (bent on
passing into or out of the gem) is dependent upon the wavelength (color) of
the light. Note that blue light
is bent more than red light
The
phenomenon of different amount of bending of different colored light is
referred to as dispersion.
Dispersion
is measured:
dispersion = refractive index of violet - refractive index of red light.
Dispersion
varies greatly with the mineral type. Lists of
dispersion values are available
The
fire
of a gem is a consequence of the cut of the stone, coupled with its
dispersion.
Many
of the light behaviors we have thought about here (reflection, refraction,
dispersion) are commonly observed in everyday life! Excellent examples can be
found in the atmosphere.
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